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The Winter Wedding Suit.

December and January weddings — when the Indian climate finally allows the richer, warmer fabrics.

Winter (December to February) is India's peak wedding season for good reason: the climate in most of the country is genuinely pleasant, and the cooler temperatures allow the use of fabrics that are impractical for most of the year. Velvet sherwanis, flannel suits, heavy brocades and fine worsted wools that would be oppressive in March are genuinely comfortable in December. The winter wedding at The Black Lapel is the occasion for commissioning the most indulgent version of the chosen garment.

Photograph to follow

The fabrics that only work in winter

Velvet for the sherwani or bandhgala is the quintessential winter choice. Deep jewel-tone velvet — burgundy, midnight navy, emerald, peacock blue — is extraordinary under the lighting of December wedding events: it absorbs light in a way that gives extraordinary depth to photographs and appears different at every viewing angle. Velvet is warm; in Chennai this restricts it to December and January. In Delhi, Jaipur or any North Indian wedding venue in December, velvet is perfectly comfortable.

Flannel for a Western suit provides the deepest, richest appearance of any suiting cloth. A charcoal flannel suit has a softness and depth that worsted wool cannot match. Flannel is heavy by suit standards; in Chennai even in December it may be warm. For North Indian winter weddings, it is appropriate and exceptionally handsome.

Heavy brocade for the sherwani — the kind with substantial metallic zari content that would be oppressive in April — is appropriate for December and January and provides the richest ceremonial appearance of any ethnic wear cloth.

Layering for winter outdoor weddings

Wedding celebrations that extend outdoors into the North Indian winter night can become very cold — particularly in Rajasthan, where the desert climate means significant temperature drops after sunset. Planning for this means having a layering option: a fine pashmina shawl over a sherwani, or a formal wool overcoat for a Western wedding suit, that can be added without undermining the visual effect of the outfit.

At The Black Lapel, we make formal overcoats that coordinate with specific wedding suits — a charcoal wool topcoat that pairs with a navy suit, or a camel cashmere coat that pairs with a grey suit. These overcoats are appropriate for outdoor evening events and for travel between indoor and outdoor spaces at winter wedding venues.

Commission your wedding outfit.

Bespoke wedding suits, sherwanis, bandhgalas and Jodhpuri suits — made at 4 Sardar Patel Road, Adyar, Chennai, since 1963. First consultation free.

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