The nikah — what the groom wears
Across most Indian Muslim communities, the nikah groom wears white or off-white as the dominant colour. The most traditional outfit is a fine white cotton or silk kurta with white churidar or salwar, and a white or cream sherwani over it. The sherwani for a nikah is typically less embellished than a wedding reception sherwani — clean and well-made rather than heavily ornamented.
Regional variations exist: in Hyderabadi tradition, the groom often wears a fine sherwani with characteristic Hyderabadi embroidery. In Lucknowi tradition, chikankari embroidery (white-on-white hand embroidery from Lucknow) on a fine cotton or mulmul kurta is traditional and very beautiful. In South Indian Tamil Muslim tradition, the Pathani suit in fine white cotton is the most common choice. Each of these regional forms can be made at The Black Lapel in appropriate cloths.
The walima — the reception after the nikah
The walima is the reception celebration after the nikah, typically held by the groom's family. This is a larger, more celebratory event where a broader range of dress is appropriate. The groom at the walima often changes from the white nikah outfit to a richer, more colourful outfit — an embellished sherwani in ivory with gold embroidery, a rich silk bandhgala in a jewel tone, or a fine Jodhpuri suit.
For guests at the walima, Indian formal dress in a wide range of colours is appropriate. Festive and celebratory outfits are welcomed; the occasion is one of joy and the dress should reflect that. White is typically reserved for the nikah and avoided for the walima, where richer colours are more appropriate for the celebration.