What determines the cost — the three main drivers
Cloth cost is typically the largest component of a bespoke garment's cost. The difference between a quality suiting wool from Raymond (an Indian mill) and a fine 150s worsted from Holland & Sherry or Scabal is significant — the latter costs several times more per metre. For a wedding garment that will be worn once and preserved for decades, the investment in fine cloth is the single most durable aspect of the commission. A fine cloth in a slightly simpler construction will look better in 20 years than a mediocre cloth with more elaborate construction details.
Construction standard — full canvas versus half canvas versus fused, the number of hand-stitched details, the quality of the lining — is the second driver. At The Black Lapel, all bespoke garments are made with hand-stitched lapels and full or half canvas as standard; this is the construction level that produces a garment worth the bespoke investment.
Embellishment cost applies specifically to sherwanis, bandhas and other Indian formal wear. Quality zardozi or resham embroidery from skilled craftsmen is priced by the complexity and coverage of the design. An all-over embroidered sherwani from a quality Lucknow embroiderer costs significantly more than one with embroidery only at the collar, placket and cuffs. The investment in quality embroidery is visible in the finished garment and in every photograph taken of it.
Getting the best value — where to invest and where to be pragmatic
The single best investment in a bespoke wedding garment is in the cloth. The cloth is permanent — it cannot be improved after the garment is made. The construction can be maintained and restored; embellishment can be added; but the fundamental quality of the cloth determines the quality of the garment for its entire life. If the budget is constrained, spend the available budget on the best possible cloth in a slightly simpler construction rather than on mediocre cloth with more elaborate details.
For embellishment on Indian formal wear, the same logic applies: quality embroidery in a restrained design looks better for longer than extensive embroidery of mediocre quality. The cost of quality zardozi embroidery is largely in the craftsman's time; this cost cannot be reduced without reducing the quality of the work. A smaller quantity of fine embroidery is preferable to a larger quantity of lower-grade work.