Brocade for Indian Ethnic Wear.

Banarasi brocade — woven in Varanasi on traditional handlooms — is the most celebrated Indian brocade. Its patterns range from geometric (butas, diaper patterns) to elaborate floral (jaal patterns) woven in pure zari, real silver, or a synthetic zari substitute. Banarasi brocade in real zari has a warmth and depth that synthetic zari cannot match; it is also heavier and more costly. For wedding sherwanis and the most formal contexts, real zari Banarasi brocade is the appropriate choice.

Kanjivaram brocade — from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu — is woven from pure mulberry silk with zari patterns in the border and body. While Kanjivaram is primarily associated with women's sarees, the brocade cloth is also used in men's sherwanis and formal kurtas, particularly in Tamil and South Indian ceremonial contexts. Its distinctive heavy silk ground and bold patterns make it particularly appropriate for temple and religious occasions.

The scale of the brocade pattern is the most important choice. A fine, small-scale geometric brocade — small diamond or teardrop motifs in a ground colour similar to the thread — reads as textured from a distance but reveals its intricacy on closer inspection. This is the most versatile brocade for a bandhgala or bandi, where the fabric provides richness without overwhelming. A large-scale floral or paisley brocade — with motifs that read clearly from several metres away — has more visual impact and is appropriate for a sherwani where the garment itself is the statement.

Colour in brocade involves both the ground colour and the zari thread colour. The most traditional combination is gold zari on a rich ground colour: deep burgundy, royal blue, emerald green, black, or the classic ivory. Silver zari has a cooler, more contemporary character and works particularly well on midnight navy or deep forest green ground cloths. In both cases, the zari should complement rather than fight the ground colour.