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Bespoke Trousers

Gurkha Trousers.

The double-tab, high-waisted trouser that has become one of the most coveted details in classic menswear.

The Gurkha trouser is distinguished by its double-tab closure — two adjustable tabs at the front that replace the belt loop and buckle system — and its high waist, which gives the trouser a longer, cleaner line from the waistband. It originated with the uniforms of the Gurkha regiments of the British Indian Army and has been adopted into bespoke menswear as one of the most characterful and elegant of trouser details. A bespoke Gurkha trouser from The Black Lapel is one of our most requested commissions from clients who are looking for something beyond the standard.

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The details — tab closure, high waist and back adjustment

The defining feature of the Gurkha trouser is the two fabric tabs at the front waistband. Each tab has a buckle and can be adjusted separately, allowing the trouser to fit precisely across the waist regardless of waist-to-hip ratio. This makes the Gurkha trouser particularly useful for men who have difficulty finding a trouser that fits both the waist and the seat simultaneously — a problem that bespoke construction solves directly.

The high waist — typically sitting an inch or two above the natural waist — gives the trouser a longer visual leg line and a cleanness at the waist that a mid-rise trouser does not have. Worn with braces rather than a belt (belt loops are typically not included), the high-waisted Gurkha trouser is comfortable, secure and extremely elegant.

The back of the Gurkha trouser typically has a cinch or a small buckle adjustment at the centre back, allowing the waistband to be fine-tuned for comfort when standing and when seated.

Commission your trousers.

Visit us at 4 Sardar Patel Road, Adyar, Chennai — Mon–Sat, 11am–9pm. First consultation free.

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