What a morning coat is and when it is worn
The morning coat is descended from the riding coat — a jacket shaped to allow comfortable riding, with the front cut away to prevent bunching on a horse. By the nineteenth century it had migrated from the stables to formal daytime events, where it has remained ever since as the standard for the smartest occasions that do not require evening dress.
In India, the morning coat is worn for: formal government events, investitures, certain court appearances (particularly in the higher courts), formal weddings where the family has specified it, and international occasions where the dress code calls for morning dress. It is rarer than a dinner suit but by no means extinct.
The complete morning dress ensemble consists of: morning coat in black or dark charcoal, striped trousers (a specific grey and black stripe), a waistcoat (typically grey or buff), a white shirt with a stiff wing or turndown collar, a grey or buff cravat or ascot, and formal black shoes.
Making a morning coat at The Black Lapel
A morning coat presents particular pattern challenges: the shaping of the curve from the front button to the tails must be executed precisely, the back tails must hang symmetrically and at the correct length, and the overall silhouette must balance the formality of the garment with the wearer's proportions. It is a commission that requires our most experienced pattern work.
We make morning coats in fine barathea wool or a smooth black or charcoal worsted. The construction is full canvas. The coat is made with a peak lapel and a single closure at the waist, with jetted pockets and a pocket at the breast. Waistcoat and striped trousers are made to match or as part of the complete ensemble.